Sunday, May 19: Art, Cars and GoT

One of the freebies we got from our travel agency was tickets to the Georgia O’Keefe Museum here in Santa Fe (1). As many of the shops and galleries are closed on Sunday, we planned to hit the museum today. A very nice museum.

Ram’s Head, Blue Morning Glory, May 2019 (2)

And a very impressive woman. In an era when women were not expected to have independent careers, she became a commercially successful fine artist. By age 40, the Brooklyn Museum held a retrospective of her work. She profited from the support of her husband, the art dealer and photographer Alfred Stieglitz, but clearly was her own woman, living apart from him for much of each year and creating an abstract style all her own.

Horse’s Scull With White Rose, May 2019 (2)

Her most famous work was based on objects and landscapes she found in and around Santa Fe, although she also worked in New York City and Lake George, NY and painted what she saw there. Yet while her work was based strongly on reality – her bones, flowers, mountains, skyscrapers all had origins in what she saw – she said that the first time she saw the actual images she painted was after she finished painting them.

Clouds 5 / Yellow Horizon and Clouds, and sketch, May 2019 (2)

By way of making the point, the image above shows the ink sketch she made of a landscape in the lower right corner, and the finished work. Those studying her work have found sketches and preliminary works under the paint on many of her works.

Petunia No. 2 and Gerald’s Tree I, May 2019 (2)

Her florals were, and continue to be controversial. Many believed that her pictures had sexual overtones, which she strenuously denied throughout her life. Sometimes, a flower is just a flower.

Replacing a broken table, May 2019

After the museum, we went and finalized the purchase of the table we looked at yesterday. This will replace one on our patio which I broke 20 years ago, but didn’t fall apart until recently.

VW, Dead Camero, and Ford Pickup, May 2019

After spending some time looking at jewelry and a late lunch, we wandered around a car show right outside the jewelry store and restaurant. More than 50 cars of varying eras and in varying condition were on display around the Plaza, Santa Fe’s central square while 60s music played on the PA.

Chrysler Roadster and Hot Rod, May 2019

Tonight we’re going to stay in. I don’t usually watch TV on vacation, or much when home, but it’s the Game of Thrones final tonight. Can’t miss that.

The end, May 2019

And it’s also the American Idol finale, which Sally will watch. So we picked up a nice bottle of wine and we’ll share that and eat in the room.


(1) $13 each, but I’m not one to sneeze at $26.

(2) Copyright is claimed for my photographs of O’Keefe’s images, not for her paintings.

Saturday, May 18: Downtown Santa Fe

Our plan for today was to stroll around sunny Santa Fe, looking at art galleries and some of the shops in the Plaza area which forms the major tourist/shopping area. Sally had found out that the colorful furnishings in our hotel – Inn of the Five Graces – were from a local store, so she wanted to take a look there.

Seret & Sons warehouse and stone tables, May 2019

We didn’t have the complete story: the hotel was owned by Ira Seret, the founder and owner of Seret & Sons, a renowned furnishings store and supplier which specializes in Central and South Asian goods. Ira, it turns out, was born and raised first in Queens and then Nassau County before spending ten years in Afghanistan, which is where he and his wife started importing goods to the US.

As we had need for a table, we spent some time in their chaotic storage area and Sally wound up tentatively selecting a table.

Art is big in Santa Fe, May 2019

After this success, we walked over to Canyon Road, which is lined with art galleries and restaurants. After stopping for a lunch salad, we came across a gallery that had familiar looking wind sculptures. After looking around and talking to the salesman, we determined that these were the same sculptures we had seen and considered buying seven years ago in Springdale, AZ while visiting Zion National Park. We both liked these sculptures, but couldn’t agree on which one. So it was shelved.

Sculpture Gallery, Canyon Road, May 2019

After going around and around and arriving at the same position we each held in 2012, we compromised and agreed to get the sculpture I liked. But I agreed we would get Sally’s favorite if we both were happy with the first one after we installed it at home.

San Francisco St., 8;30pm, Saturday night, May 2019

After dinner, I went out for a walk. After all, it’s Saturday night, and I expected downtown to be hopping, with the numerous bars and restaurants doing a booming business and people on the street. Maybe the restaurants were full (1) (2), but the bars I could see into were pretty sparse and the streets were downright deserted.


(1) I say “maybe”, because while I generally couldn’t see into the restaurants, we couldn’t get a reservation anywhere and would up eating in the bar at one. Not that that was a problem, as we had a large booth and the same menu as the restaurant section.

(2) What was a problem is the increased difficulty finding garlic-free dishes that Sally can eat. Our trip to Tennessee last year was exhausting in this regard, and this is turning out the same.

Friday, May 17: On the trail to Santa Fe

We left our not-so-luxurious digs at the Holiday Inn Express & Suites in Alamogordo (1) and headed north to Santa Fe. 240 miles across the high desert, gradually ascending from 4300′ to 7400′. I love the desert. We drove for hours, mostly in a straight line, with literally 2 or 3 no-stoplight towns along the way. I wasn’t bored in the least.

But I did need a rest stop.

Cline’s Corner, May 2019

After almost three hours, we came to the intersection with I-40, and there was a huge travel plaza where I pulled off. I didn’t realize until much later that Clines Corner is quite famous. I also didn’t realize that I-40 is also the historic Route 66, of fame and song (2). Clines has apparently relocated three times over the years as Route 66 has been rerouted through New Mexico. It’s everything a rest stop should be, down to having Zoltar to tell your fortune.

Lapis Suite, Inn of the Five Graces, May 2019

The Inn of the Five Graces in Santa Fe is … hard to describe. It’s located in the central section of town, a few blocks from the Plaza, shops and art galleries. The Inn is spread across building on both sides of a small street. Our suite is across the street from the main building, and consists of a living room, a bedroom and a huge bathroom.

It’s very colorful.

It also has large chairs in the bedroom, and the bathroom. And, like so many nice places we’ve stayed, large pieces of furniture with tiny storage space. Either we seriously overpack (I don’t think so), or I don’t know how you’re supposed to unpack in these places. The bedroom, while large, is overcrowded.

But it’s very nice.

Santa Fe style: lots of Adobe-style and rustic, and occasional gothic, May 2019

We had a late lunch and then wine & cheese late in the day, so Sally decided to skip dinner. I went out, walked around a bit, and had a mediocre grilled chicken sandwich. But the beer flight was interesting.

I didn’t eat at the Coyote Cafe, but had beer, May 2019


(1) My regular readers will know that I often post pictures of the great accommodations Sally finds us. I found the Holiday Inn, and it shows. So no pix.

(2) (Get your kicks on) Route 66, by Bobby Troup, first a hit for Nat King Cole.

Thursday, May 16: Evening dunes

I wrote earlier about my frustration at not being able to enter White Sands until an hour after sunrise, making capturing the great dawn light impossible. The evening hours work better: it’s open until 8:30, and sunset was was about 8:00. Bingo!

I joined a Ranger walk to watch the sunset (and learn more about White Sands). Here are some shots taken in the softer light.

Receding dunes, May 2019

(Almost full) Moon rises above a falling yucca, May 2019

Yuccas have evolved a unique survival strategy. The dunes they grow on are constantly moving and burying them. So they send tall shoots out which will grow as the lower portion gets smothered. If the dune moves on and exposes the buried plant, the trunk can’t support the weight and falls over.

Glowing yucca, May 2019

We leave Alamogordo this morning and head up to Santa Fe. It’s been really hot here – it was 95F Thursday afternoon – but promises to be a much more comfortable mid-60s in Santa Fe.

Thursday, May 16: New Mexico

I’ve never been to New Mexico. Until yesterday. Sally and I left our house at 6:00am to catch a pair of flights to Albuquerque, where we rented a brand-spanking-new Cadillac XTS. It wasn’t quite ready when we arrived at the Enterprise counter, but we decided to wait a promised ten minutes rather than leave with a hulking SUV. The car they delivered had four miles on the odometer, and the plastic that covers cars when they ship them was still visible in many places.

The Caddy reaches White Sands, May 2019

Four hours later, we arrived at our Hilton Express in Alamogordo (1), starving and looking for any place where we could actually eat. Alamogordo has the highest proportion of fast food restaurants to all restaurants I’ve ever seen in a real town (2) – all of your favorites are here, along with one nice-ish Italian place, pizzerias, burger joints, Asian and surprisingly few Mexican places. In fact, more Asian than Mexican.

We wound up in what would be called a diner back home. It worked.

White Sands National Monument, May 2019

Today the plan was to explore White Sands National Monument. White Sands is the largest gypsum dune field in the world by far. It lies in a basin surrounded by mountains containing the mineral, which washes down in rain storms and has been beaten into fine particles by the wind over thousands of years.

The best time for landscape photos is usually sunrise and/or sunset. Unfortunately, WSNM doesn’t open until 7:00am, which is an hour after sunrise. I got there before 7:00, and sure enough the gate was locked. And a barbed wire fence. But at 7:00 I went in, and spent a couple of hours driving and wandering around.

Cool dune, May 2019

It’s pretty cool.

After breakfast, Sally and I went back and did the tour again. I climbed a couple of small dunes near the road, and Sally enjoyed the scenery. We checked out a short hike, but it looked a bit challenging so we decided to go for lunch and that I would return later on my own to try it out.

White Sands Dune Life Nature Trail, May 2019

When I got back around 1:00, it was pretty hot. 95F hot. The loop I took is only a mile, and I was beat when I finished 45 minutes later.


(1) If you’re having trouble getting your tongue around the name, think “Alamo + Gordo”.

(2) At 35,000 people, it’s more than twice the size of Rutland, VT.

Sunday, February 17 – Homeward bound

I mentioned that we had our final class yesterday, Saturday.  This class was a little different than the previous ones.  Rather than bring in a set of images from the prior day’s shooting, we were told to bring in our Top 10 for the week.  It was interesting in a number of ways.

No one actually arrived in class with their homework assignment complete.  All of us – including me – spent the first part of the class trying to get this set collected.  I got mine done a bit more quickly than most people, but was still late.  Here they are (1):

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My “Top 10” (in no particular order), February 2019

Then, for each of us, Steve  showed his selection of our Top 10 images.  For me, as well as for the others, there was substantial overlap but not complete agreement.  He and I agreed on six, and chose four different images to complete the set (2).

I think we all enjoyed seeing each others Top 10, as well as Steve’s Top 10 for each of us as well as his own Top 10 images.  The conversation around the selections was enlightening.  He’s developed into a good teacher, and provides feedback in a very constructive and non-threatening way.


 

Today, Sunday, there’s no class.  I went out to shoot for an hour, and took some tourist snaps.  We all said goodbye, sometimes several times, as we kept running into each other in the hotel lobby or at breakfast.

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It’s not easy being Cubano, February 2019
My flight leaves this afternoon, bringing this great trip to an end.  I go back to the cold northeast.

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Heading home, February 2019

 


 

Saturday, March 1, 2019 – Postscript

Looking at these Top 10 (or 11) images as I write this, I realize that I would make different selections now.  Some of these would make the cut, but not all.  I’m also pretty sure that if you ask me a year from now, I’ll again make different selections. That’s okay, as art is not really a competitive activity.

But none of that really matters.  This week was an intensive exercise in shooting, editing, processing, receiving and giving criticism, and working hard on finding and making the best images I could.  While I’ve photographed shows and sports before, nothing compared with the speed and action from either the boxing or ballet shoots.  The street shooting was as fertile as anywhere I’ve been.

This week was also spent with an interesting group of new colleagues from across the country (plus Canada and Cuba). As I’ve experienced in previous workshops, each of the participants made images that I wish were mine – regardless of their so-called skill level (which ranged from beginner to professional) or equipment (which ranged from pocket cameras to the newest and most sophisticated cameras on the market).  And I’m still struggling to figure out how I never saw some of those images, despite walking the same streets at the same time as they did.

This week was also a fascinating look at a city and a culture that has been made into an evil place by our leaders for more than 50 years – since I was a child.  The people I met were certainly not evil.  The Cuban embargo is way past it’s sell-by date.  These are just people, trying to get by, and living their lives.  The embargo affects them much more than it affects the political leadership of the country.  We may think those old cars are cute, but I’m sure most Cuban car owners would trade them for a boring new Toyota in an instant.  The limited availability of various types of food and manufactured goods is obvious and extreme.  The infrastructure, despite construction all around the city center, is crumbling and they can’t keep up. Municipal services, such as sanitation and water, are not what we would be happy with.

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Just people, February 2019

 

So there you have it.  A week in Havana, spent well.

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(1) Yes, I know there are 11.  They’re all my children.  I got it down from 6,000 to 11, but don’t make me go any further.

(2) You’re probably wondering which of my images he preferred, and which he didn’t select.  I can’t tell you.  Due to technical difficulties, I’ve lost his selections.

Saturday, February 16 – Cars and the city

Saturday was our last full day in Cuba. So we took pictures around the city and had a class. A big surprise, I know.

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Colorful cityscape in Havana, February 2019

We went over and looked at the University of Havana and the neighborhood surrounding it.  While the University was sort of impressive from the street, we were unable to gain entry to the grounds and so I took a couple of forgettable images.  But here it is anyway.  I have no idea if the interior portion of the campus was also impressive, or vacant, or a ruin.

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University of Havana, with photographers, February 2019

What I was able to do was shoot a few more of the classic cars that roam the city.  I know I’ve already shared lots of images of them, but the cars are really something to see.  Also, Sally’s last words to me before my flight took off last week were “I love you.  Get lots of pictures of cars”.

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City in motion, February 2019

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Cars at rest, February 2019

I also got some more images of life in the city.  This cute little girl was playing in an empty playground.

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More street scenes, February 2019

I’ve mentioned before that the streets are remarkably empty of cars, which makes the pollution levels even more surprising.  Here’s a shot of a main street on this Saturday.

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Empty city streets, February 2019

That night we had dinner in a (really) fine restaurant.  Afterwards we went to watch two street performers put on a fire-eating show.  Some of my classmates got great images; I did not.  So I’ll leave you with my mediocre image.

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Mediocre fire eater (1), February 2019

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(1) The image, not the fire eaters. They were quite good.

Friday, February 15 – Dance, dance, dance

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Escuela Nacional de Ballet, February 2019

The headline activity for today was another exhibition of sorts: we went to the Escuela Nacional de Ballet (National Ballet School) to observe and photograph the students in class. We were on a precise schedule, waiting at our hotel (only a few minutes away by bus) from the school until they were ready for us. We arrived around 9:00am, and spent a few minutes in the beautiful lobby of the predictably run-down building for a formal introduction to the Director.

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Men at work, February 2019

After that, we all split up and wandered around, popping into classrooms and rehearsal studios at will. Classes changed at 10:00, and we all somehow found ourselves in a very large studio that seemed to be gathering students, teachers and other guests. What we soon figured out was that there was a graded recital for some of the advanced students taking place, and so we spent the next two hours photographing the best as they tried their best.

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Women’s work, February 2019

Much like the boxing gym yesterday, photographing these students – despite knowing more or less where they were going to be, and having the freedom to move anywhere in the room (not on the dance floor, of course) – was a huge challenge. I left exhausted. I thought I had reached a personal high at the boxing gym with over 1,000 images in about two hours; I left the ballet school with 2,000 (1). Lots of material to review.

 

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Class exam, February 2019

 

After lunch on my own and after the class, I hit the streets again for some more relaxing photography. Havana is really a great walking town. A mile in any direction from the hotel covers a lot of the center city. There are so few cars that you can easily walk in the middle of most of the side streets without much problem.

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Street scenes #3,487, February 2019

People are friendly enough if not always thrilled if you take their picture. On the other hand, those side streets are often in disrepair, there are open dumpsters where people deposit their household trash, dogs and cats roam freely and do their stuff anywhere.

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You can hear the music playing, February 2019

We had dinner in the “formal” dining room at the hotel. Formal, in this case, means I wore a shirt with a collar. People were still in shorts, though not I. After dinner, I think some people retired for the evening. But I couldn’t resist going out and shooting the night scenes again. I mentioned to Sally that there are two aspects of these photography workshops: the formal and informal learning parts, and the opportunity to spend large amounts of time photographing interesting subjects. This particular workshop has certainly hit a home run in both aspects.

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Late night mystery, February 2019


(1) These four hours of shooting – boxing and ballet – represented fully 1/2 of the images I captured during the entire trip. However, they represented a much smaller percentage of the images I have elected to show.

Thursday, February 14 – Boxing Day

This morning started in the usual way – breakfast, then walk around a bit to take some pictures. At 9:00 we boarded our bus to go to the Rafael Trejo Boxing Gym to try our hands at shooting some action.

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Gloves and tape, February 2019

The first part of the shoot was watching them warm up with some group exercises, and then watching some of them suit up to spar. The equipment in this case is pretty simple: they “taped” their hands, wrapping them with long strips of cloth, then downed boxing gloves. No headgear or special footgear, just whatever shoes they were wearing. A few of them used mouthguards.

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Scary and scared, February 2019

Some of the boxers also took turns on the heavy bag. This doesn’t look like much, but the biggest of them were exhausted after hitting for 5-10 minutes.

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It’s in the eyes, February 2019

One would think that taking pictures of two people at close quarters in the confined space of a boxing ring would be simple. And one would be wrong. We had total freedom to position ourselves around the ring, either standing on the ground and peering through the ropes, or standing on the mat outside the ropes and looking over them. While this enabled me to actually get some good images, I shot over 1,000 frames in the process.

After a couple of exhausting hours, we went for lunch and then our class.

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Wild and crazy photogs, February 2019

After class, we took another ride in the classic convertible cars.  You’ll recall this was originally planned for Wednesday, but was called on account of rain.  Along the way we saw even more classic cars.

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Even More Cars, February 2019

As the sun went down, we were back on the bus for a visit to the giant Jesus statue that overlooks the city.  The views were nice, and the park was filled with couples enjoying a romantic Valentine’s Day evening watching the sunset.  Of course, we were there with our cameras to document their PDA.

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PDA in Havana on Valentine’s Day, February 2019

The Jesus statue was pretty impressive.  And if you looked closely, he was holding the moon in his hand.

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He’s got the whole moon, in his hand, February 2019

 

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Wednesday, February 13 – When the rain comes

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El Capitolio, February 2019

We were supposed to take another ride in the convertibles today, but it was drizzling in the morning.  And that turned into a heavy downpour by late afternoon.  But while this interrupted our riding plans, it most definitely didn’t stop us from taking pictures.  We started out as a group, which is a real no-no.  A large group of people carrying big, intimidating cameras is a sure way to scare your subjects.

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Why are Street photographers looking at the sky?, February 2019

We walked past the capital building (cleverly labeled “CAPITOLIO” so you couldn’t mistake it for anyhing else) to a section of the city where people were hurrying to work and dong their morning shopping.  At this point, we scattered.

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Morning commute, February 2019

Of course, not everyone who commutes walks – sometimes you have to go too far to walk.  Havana has every form of ground transportation you could imagine – walking, bikes, peditaxis, motorbikes, cars, buses, mopeds, etc.  The little yellow things are apparently classified as motorbikes, as the drivers all wear helmets. The passengers don’t.

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Rainy transportation, February 2019

 

The rain got harder, which lead me to try and stay under cover somewhat.  But others didn’t always have that choice.  And it was pretty hard on the laundry hung out to dry.

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Caught in the rain, February 2019

That afternoon we had another class, then a bit of free time, then dinner.  After dinner, I went out again to enjoy the night and take some pictures.  When I got back to the hotel, a band was in full swing, killing it with Motown, Tina Turner and other American music covers.

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Evening in Havana, February 2019

 

 

 

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